EazyWeazy3
Jan 24, 06:10 PM
Forgive me if this has been answered before.
Just wondering why there isn't a Marketplace or a Buy/Sell forum on here?
Was there one before? Is there one now and I'm just not seeing it?
Just been curious as to why there isn't one. I'm sure lots of members have a bunch of goodies they want to get rid of and people are always in the market for new toys and gadgets.
Hopefully someone can shed some light on the situation for me.
Thanks.
Just wondering why there isn't a Marketplace or a Buy/Sell forum on here?
Was there one before? Is there one now and I'm just not seeing it?
Just been curious as to why there isn't one. I'm sure lots of members have a bunch of goodies they want to get rid of and people are always in the market for new toys and gadgets.
Hopefully someone can shed some light on the situation for me.
Thanks.
maflynn
Feb 2, 09:53 AM
Yeh but ...... "every other sandy bridge computer is a 'PC' and Dell/HP appear to have more stock (sandy bridge) or in the process of ramping up production, when the news broke.
Yep and they'll have to right off that stock and/or get intel to cover the cost. The point is that this affects every computer maker. I'd not really single out one or two makers. What about Lenovo, they have sandy bridge computers, or Acer, Asus, or Gateway?
Yep and they'll have to right off that stock and/or get intel to cover the cost. The point is that this affects every computer maker. I'd not really single out one or two makers. What about Lenovo, they have sandy bridge computers, or Acer, Asus, or Gateway?
GeekOFComedy
Apr 11, 11:58 AM
Can you get into the recovery partition ( command-r ) ?
Yup, I tried fixing the permissions, says the group was 0 instead of 80. After that and I reboot same thing :mad:
Yup, I tried fixing the permissions, says the group was 0 instead of 80. After that and I reboot same thing :mad:
Schnebar
Jan 17, 08:38 AM
My friend is going up to SF this afternoon and then going to Macworld tomorrow. He asked if I want to come and I would love to.
But I remember last year, people talking about how all the stands are closed on friday and there is no point in going.
I do not know what I would actually do there besides look at the macbook air but it would be a fun experience considering that all my finals are over today.
It is just a few hours drive but would it be worth it?
But I remember last year, people talking about how all the stands are closed on friday and there is no point in going.
I do not know what I would actually do there besides look at the macbook air but it would be a fun experience considering that all my finals are over today.
It is just a few hours drive but would it be worth it?
more...
LastLine
Mar 31, 02:03 PM
lol just a lil ;) But how the hell could a 3 year old understand how to play the gane? It requires quite of bit of planning and thinking to avoid going bankrupt, especially if you put it in FULL mode where you gotta buy and sell stocks...
Agreed - it's probably just the teacher in me ;)
Agreed - it's probably just the teacher in me ;)
JasonR
Nov 8, 12:03 PM
You would trademark a logo and business name. If some one already has that trademark for the industry then you can't trademark it.
You can search active trademarks on the USPTO website.
You can search active trademarks on the USPTO website.
more...
rockinrocker
Apr 25, 09:54 AM
Cool.
Any comments about the battery life?
Any comments about the battery life?
No ice please
Oct 31, 12:18 PM
What I have on my laptop now. I'll get a picture of my DVD and VHS collection later.
more...
chrismacguy
Jan 18, 07:54 AM
It's worth about $15. In ten years maybe $10.
In thirty years, if it still works and you can find some packaging for it (Original is best) - You might get $300 or so for it (Thats what decent nick 20year old rare models go for now, so since yours isnt particularly rare, thats what Id expect its max price to be if it was fully functional at 40something
In thirty years, if it still works and you can find some packaging for it (Original is best) - You might get $300 or so for it (Thats what decent nick 20year old rare models go for now, so since yours isnt particularly rare, thats what Id expect its max price to be if it was fully functional at 40something
iTunes-Luv
Apr 15, 09:13 AM
Nicely done.
Wondering if you can make an angry bird version, something like this.
Will be a special gift this Xmas
http://www.buyfrompowerseller.com/product_images/uploaded_images/macbook-angry-bird-leather-case-cover.jpg
Wondering if you can make an angry bird version, something like this.
Will be a special gift this Xmas
http://www.buyfrompowerseller.com/product_images/uploaded_images/macbook-angry-bird-leather-case-cover.jpg
more...
Demosthenes X
Apr 6, 04:47 PM
The iLock isn't the worst idea I've ever heard of, actually... proximity keys exist for cars, why not homes? There would be some obstacles to overcome, obviously, but it's not a terrible idea in principle...
iBox is my favourite spoof, I think. :D
And as long as we're posting spoofs... this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw2nkoGLhrE) deserves a nod. An oldie, but a goodie.
iBox is my favourite spoof, I think. :D
And as long as we're posting spoofs... this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw2nkoGLhrE) deserves a nod. An oldie, but a goodie.
maflynn
Mar 29, 09:46 AM
The stock analysts have target prices on Apple as high as $550.
I have absolutely no doubt that will happen, so I am holding my large position in Apple.
A broker can give you suggestions how to buy without a SS#.
The OP has suggested that he doesn't want investment advice, i.e., the wisdom of putting all of his money in one stock thats at an all time high, but rather how can he actually go about purchasing the stock using US dollars without a social security number.
I have absolutely no doubt that will happen, so I am holding my large position in Apple.
A broker can give you suggestions how to buy without a SS#.
The OP has suggested that he doesn't want investment advice, i.e., the wisdom of putting all of his money in one stock thats at an all time high, but rather how can he actually go about purchasing the stock using US dollars without a social security number.
more...
nanofrog
Apr 24, 09:32 PM
So I'm a freelance Editor/Motion Graphics guy with no real understanding of RAID Controller Cards, or how they work.
As of right now I have three 1TB drives inside my Mac Pro, RAIDed together (stripe 0) using the OS. No Raid card.
The drives are all 7200rpm from varying manufacturers. (not sure if this matters.)
My questions is; is it beneficial for me to get a RAID card to control these drives vs. leaving it to the OS to handle? Any suggestions for me?
Thanks.
2010 8-Core Mac Pro 2.4
14GB RAM
It all depends on the details of how you use the system (RAID is supposed to be configured to the specific usage, so there's no "one size fits all", though for narrowed usage patterns, you will see similarities).
I'd advise you to search out previous RAID threads (there's quite a few), and pay attention to the various questions asked, and get back to us with some answers). I'd also recommend you review Wiki's RAID page (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID) (pay particular attention to the different levels).
If you're a paid professional, using a stripe set (RAID 0) is a disaster waiting to happen. Even with a backup, you'll spend a fair bit of time to perform a recovery when a disk dies (matter of when, not if), and this also means re-performing work that was done between the most recent backup and when the array failed (beyond replacing the bad disk and restoring all the backup files, which presumably <worst case>, will be multiples to return all the data you have from your backup media).
Glad to see you at least have some sort of backup with your current configuration. :)
Now if you go with a RAID card, you'll need to use enterprise grade drives for stability reasons (different recovery timings in the firmware than consumer models, which tend to be unstable as a result). Unfortunately, they're not as cheap (in fact, can be 2x as expensive as their consumer counterparts for the latest capacity).
Consumer disks are fine for backup purposes though, and this can save you a considerable amount of funds, particularly if your capacity requirements are high (i.e. eSATA card + Port Multiplier based external enclosure; example kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816111136&cm_re=tr4mp-_-16-111-136-_-Product)).
There are some inexpensive products that claim RAID 5, but be careful. Some are software based, which should never be used for this level (no solution to the "write hole issue" associated with parity based arrays). Others use very inexpensive hardware RAID controllers (aka RoC = RAID on a Chip). They're slow for primary usage, and is why they're cheap (compromise on performance vs. proper RAID cards).
If on a budget you could go with RAID-Z, it involves switching to the ZFS file system. RAID-Z1 apparently offers similar performance to RAID5. Read this thread (http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1135718) for further insight.
This can get complicated on the software end though, and not recommended for those that aren't comfortable with the additional complexity (patches for OS X or via VM), particularly for a DAS system (has more merit with NAS or SAN IMO).
So I'd stick with a 3rd party hardware RAID card, assuming this is actually needed, enterprise disks and any enclosures/mounting hardware necessary. Much simpler in terms of software (install the drivers, and any interface software that's required to access the card settings), and the hardware aspect isn't that difficult either.
I would get an SSD for the OS and use the 3x 7200rpm Disks in RAID5.
RAID5 is great for storing uncompressed video data and in your case would offer protection against a single drive failure.
Most cards don't deal with consumer grade disks very well (ATTO and Area definitely don't).
But consumer disks are fine for backup purposed (i.e via eSATA and PM enclosures) due to the lower duty cycle (where you can cut costs effectively, and not endanger the data).
or Just RAID5 with 3x HDD's and partition the RAID volume.
I wouldn't do this if both partitions are to be used simultaneously (i.e. primary data one one partition, scratch data on the other).
The most recommend cards right now are the Areca 6g 1880 series or the new ATTO 6G series. For your needs something like the ARC-1880-i SAS 6G RAID Controller would suffice if you don't plan to connect external RAID/Storage solution.
Those are the best recommendations as far as brand and series per. As to a specific model, it will depend on the specifics, particularly for growth (i.e 8 ports may be outgrown in under 3 years, so getting a card with sufficient ports to last that long would be cheaper in the long run - just add disks and enclosures as necessary).
Sorry should have been more clear (like I said I'm dumb) I have a 500GB Boot drive that lives independently from the (3) 1TB drives RAIDED together via the OS.
A separate boot disk is advisable, as you still have a working OS if the array goes down (allows you to access the card, use the browser to search for help, or deal with Support from the card manufacturer if needed).
And ALL data (3.5TB's) is backed up by an external 4TB Time Machine RAID (2 drives @ 2TB each)...which is connected via 2 eSATA cables via the eSATA PCI Card I bought from OWC...which I guess is actually RAIDed by the OS as well.
That backup solution is a RAID 0. The overall backup solution will almost certainly need to change in order to be sufficient for the primary storage pool you'll end up with.
Not sure what you are looking at, since 3 drives is sort of an odd combination. I have a 2009/2010 Mac Pro Nehalem, running the apple sas card for the 4 internal bays (yes I know they make adapters to use 3rd party cards), and the performance is fair, not great but fair. About 300Mb/s read/write with 4 WD Black edition drives (1tb each). Externally, running an Areca 1680x card, with a 8 drive ProAvio chassis, 8 SAS Seagate 15k7 drives (450GB) which gives close to 900MB/s. I have tried multiple cards over the years, nano and I have exchanged lots of posts/messages. Email/PM me with specific questions and I will try and help you. Beware of most of these 3rd party slot adapters/etc. they are more hassle than they are worth.
I've not heard or seen any issues with the MaxUpgrades kit.
As per Apple's card, I'm no fan of it, particularly due to the cost/performance ratio.
BTW, the OP only has 2 posts at the time of writting this, so returning a PM isn't possible yet (needs to have 5 posts IIRC). email would work if you have that enabled.
As of right now I have three 1TB drives inside my Mac Pro, RAIDed together (stripe 0) using the OS. No Raid card.
The drives are all 7200rpm from varying manufacturers. (not sure if this matters.)
My questions is; is it beneficial for me to get a RAID card to control these drives vs. leaving it to the OS to handle? Any suggestions for me?
Thanks.
2010 8-Core Mac Pro 2.4
14GB RAM
It all depends on the details of how you use the system (RAID is supposed to be configured to the specific usage, so there's no "one size fits all", though for narrowed usage patterns, you will see similarities).
I'd advise you to search out previous RAID threads (there's quite a few), and pay attention to the various questions asked, and get back to us with some answers). I'd also recommend you review Wiki's RAID page (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID) (pay particular attention to the different levels).
If you're a paid professional, using a stripe set (RAID 0) is a disaster waiting to happen. Even with a backup, you'll spend a fair bit of time to perform a recovery when a disk dies (matter of when, not if), and this also means re-performing work that was done between the most recent backup and when the array failed (beyond replacing the bad disk and restoring all the backup files, which presumably <worst case>, will be multiples to return all the data you have from your backup media).
Glad to see you at least have some sort of backup with your current configuration. :)
Now if you go with a RAID card, you'll need to use enterprise grade drives for stability reasons (different recovery timings in the firmware than consumer models, which tend to be unstable as a result). Unfortunately, they're not as cheap (in fact, can be 2x as expensive as their consumer counterparts for the latest capacity).
Consumer disks are fine for backup purposes though, and this can save you a considerable amount of funds, particularly if your capacity requirements are high (i.e. eSATA card + Port Multiplier based external enclosure; example kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816111136&cm_re=tr4mp-_-16-111-136-_-Product)).
There are some inexpensive products that claim RAID 5, but be careful. Some are software based, which should never be used for this level (no solution to the "write hole issue" associated with parity based arrays). Others use very inexpensive hardware RAID controllers (aka RoC = RAID on a Chip). They're slow for primary usage, and is why they're cheap (compromise on performance vs. proper RAID cards).
If on a budget you could go with RAID-Z, it involves switching to the ZFS file system. RAID-Z1 apparently offers similar performance to RAID5. Read this thread (http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1135718) for further insight.
This can get complicated on the software end though, and not recommended for those that aren't comfortable with the additional complexity (patches for OS X or via VM), particularly for a DAS system (has more merit with NAS or SAN IMO).
So I'd stick with a 3rd party hardware RAID card, assuming this is actually needed, enterprise disks and any enclosures/mounting hardware necessary. Much simpler in terms of software (install the drivers, and any interface software that's required to access the card settings), and the hardware aspect isn't that difficult either.
I would get an SSD for the OS and use the 3x 7200rpm Disks in RAID5.
RAID5 is great for storing uncompressed video data and in your case would offer protection against a single drive failure.
Most cards don't deal with consumer grade disks very well (ATTO and Area definitely don't).
But consumer disks are fine for backup purposed (i.e via eSATA and PM enclosures) due to the lower duty cycle (where you can cut costs effectively, and not endanger the data).
or Just RAID5 with 3x HDD's and partition the RAID volume.
I wouldn't do this if both partitions are to be used simultaneously (i.e. primary data one one partition, scratch data on the other).
The most recommend cards right now are the Areca 6g 1880 series or the new ATTO 6G series. For your needs something like the ARC-1880-i SAS 6G RAID Controller would suffice if you don't plan to connect external RAID/Storage solution.
Those are the best recommendations as far as brand and series per. As to a specific model, it will depend on the specifics, particularly for growth (i.e 8 ports may be outgrown in under 3 years, so getting a card with sufficient ports to last that long would be cheaper in the long run - just add disks and enclosures as necessary).
Sorry should have been more clear (like I said I'm dumb) I have a 500GB Boot drive that lives independently from the (3) 1TB drives RAIDED together via the OS.
A separate boot disk is advisable, as you still have a working OS if the array goes down (allows you to access the card, use the browser to search for help, or deal with Support from the card manufacturer if needed).
And ALL data (3.5TB's) is backed up by an external 4TB Time Machine RAID (2 drives @ 2TB each)...which is connected via 2 eSATA cables via the eSATA PCI Card I bought from OWC...which I guess is actually RAIDed by the OS as well.
That backup solution is a RAID 0. The overall backup solution will almost certainly need to change in order to be sufficient for the primary storage pool you'll end up with.
Not sure what you are looking at, since 3 drives is sort of an odd combination. I have a 2009/2010 Mac Pro Nehalem, running the apple sas card for the 4 internal bays (yes I know they make adapters to use 3rd party cards), and the performance is fair, not great but fair. About 300Mb/s read/write with 4 WD Black edition drives (1tb each). Externally, running an Areca 1680x card, with a 8 drive ProAvio chassis, 8 SAS Seagate 15k7 drives (450GB) which gives close to 900MB/s. I have tried multiple cards over the years, nano and I have exchanged lots of posts/messages. Email/PM me with specific questions and I will try and help you. Beware of most of these 3rd party slot adapters/etc. they are more hassle than they are worth.
I've not heard or seen any issues with the MaxUpgrades kit.
As per Apple's card, I'm no fan of it, particularly due to the cost/performance ratio.
BTW, the OP only has 2 posts at the time of writting this, so returning a PM isn't possible yet (needs to have 5 posts IIRC). email would work if you have that enabled.
Blackhatch
Apr 5, 08:30 AM
What is your budget? What do you expect to do with the camera? What lighting conditions? Will you be recording audio using the camera or an external device? What mics do you have/plan to get? How will it be supported? What do you plan to edit with? What is your final output?
Budget - I would like to keep it under $800
Lighting conditions - should be very good as I will normally be shooting in daylight and clear weather.
Mics - I don't have any but will get whatever is required. I was going to add most of the audio after the fact for clarity's sake.
Edit - Not sure. Whatever is most friendly and easy to work with.
Output - This will be video content for my website.
Basically...I am a contractor that wants to post of some video of completed jobs with some audio about what we do and why.
Budget - I would like to keep it under $800
Lighting conditions - should be very good as I will normally be shooting in daylight and clear weather.
Mics - I don't have any but will get whatever is required. I was going to add most of the audio after the fact for clarity's sake.
Edit - Not sure. Whatever is most friendly and easy to work with.
Output - This will be video content for my website.
Basically...I am a contractor that wants to post of some video of completed jobs with some audio about what we do and why.
more...
Twe Foju
Apr 26, 06:55 AM
for 1 thing we all know is that the SB will most likely have a weaker GPU for games, and if gaming on the Air isn't your idea, well, a refresh might be better, but as for now, just keep your Air, i am sure, a lot of people would still buy the current Air even when the refresh is out
skydenyy
Apr 15, 04:08 AM
the problem is that I do not have even one, not to say two. Can you please give me some suggestion on which brand to buy?
more...
el greenerino
Dec 20, 05:59 AM
You could probably take what you need scanned to a service bereau, they'd probably do a better job than anything the average home user would. Just make sure they're reputable and use equipment that's better han what they use at walgreens :p
Artful Dodger
Mar 1, 10:22 AM
Hello, if you look at my other post on the LaCie there is some info that I got from LaCie and some cd/dvd manfs. about the type of disc you need.
The burner won't be out untill mid March and as LaCie's web page says they are taking pre-orders.
Quote:
kwajaln
Artful Dodger, I had planned on buying one of the LaCie lightscribe external burners in the near future, but you mentioned something that caught my attention. Are there only certain blanks that are compatible with the lightscribe capability? I *assumed* any blank without a surfce design would have done the trick, but I guess not. Thanks!
Yes only certain media will work, TDK, HP (it's their drive in it), Verbatim and only the "+" R media since none of the companies are making any other media as of yet. This was from about 3 or 4 e-mails to different companies that were given to me by LaCie. Also the discs are of a gray scale "etched" quality when burned.
You will have to look for the Lightscribe logo on the side of the dvd/cd cake packs or what ever they pack them in.
Hope this helps.
The burner won't be out untill mid March and as LaCie's web page says they are taking pre-orders.
Quote:
kwajaln
Artful Dodger, I had planned on buying one of the LaCie lightscribe external burners in the near future, but you mentioned something that caught my attention. Are there only certain blanks that are compatible with the lightscribe capability? I *assumed* any blank without a surfce design would have done the trick, but I guess not. Thanks!
Yes only certain media will work, TDK, HP (it's their drive in it), Verbatim and only the "+" R media since none of the companies are making any other media as of yet. This was from about 3 or 4 e-mails to different companies that were given to me by LaCie. Also the discs are of a gray scale "etched" quality when burned.
You will have to look for the Lightscribe logo on the side of the dvd/cd cake packs or what ever they pack them in.
Hope this helps.
superkrups20056
Apr 1, 01:40 PM
By no problem, do you mean that you feel no difference between 10.6 an 10.7?
Well the cursor is not as fast as in Windows, but it's managable.
It means that the cursor movement is not linear to the mouse movement. Google it and you will see that it's a huge issue for people that want to game on their Macs, especially for Windows switchers that are not used to it. The worst part is that there is no setting in OS X to remove it.
Here are two images that illustrate it (from a 3rd party software that removes the acceleration)
Without this program: http://triq.net/files/gallery/snip2.png With this program: http://triq.net/files/gallery/snip1.png
I am begging Lion to have an option to turn mouse acceleration off. I've tried most of these 3rd party programs, and they don't really help. It really affects how well you can play RTSs and FPSs. Please, Apple, just give up an option like Windows does!
Well the cursor is not as fast as in Windows, but it's managable.
It means that the cursor movement is not linear to the mouse movement. Google it and you will see that it's a huge issue for people that want to game on their Macs, especially for Windows switchers that are not used to it. The worst part is that there is no setting in OS X to remove it.
Here are two images that illustrate it (from a 3rd party software that removes the acceleration)
Without this program: http://triq.net/files/gallery/snip2.png With this program: http://triq.net/files/gallery/snip1.png
I am begging Lion to have an option to turn mouse acceleration off. I've tried most of these 3rd party programs, and they don't really help. It really affects how well you can play RTSs and FPSs. Please, Apple, just give up an option like Windows does!
wpotere
May 6, 08:20 PM
Windows is using cloud computing now which is what you are sort of referring to. The problem is that they way you think it should work is not how someone else might think it should work. Frankly I don't like having files sync across all computers as there is a potential to screwup revisions. This is control I want.
What you can do is simply share the folder on one computer and connect to it with the other to get to the file you want. If you don't like that, other methods like a sync program could be used to copy the files to the other computer.
What you can do is simply share the folder on one computer and connect to it with the other to get to the file you want. If you don't like that, other methods like a sync program could be used to copy the files to the other computer.
iamthemacgeek
Oct 19, 12:06 PM
I will be going to KOP. I am excited. My wife and I are also buying iPhones. WOOHOO!!!!
usnek
Apr 30, 08:41 AM
Greatly appreciate it.
I am sitting in office, debating whether to show up in Stonebriar or Willowbend.
I am sitting in office, debating whether to show up in Stonebriar or Willowbend.
Thomas Veil
Feb 10, 05:39 PM
So did they put out an APB on the rooster? Is it still running around out there like a...
(...no, no, that's too easy!)
And could this story be the inspiration for a whole series of chicken slasher films?
(...no, no, that's too easy!)
And could this story be the inspiration for a whole series of chicken slasher films?
wrldwzrd89
Sep 28, 07:01 PM
now how 'bout the other way gentlemen? How do I go from my Powerbook to my girlfriend's pc?
Doing that is just as simple. Copy your library (over the network, onto CDs/DVDs/an external HD, etc.) to your PC, open iTunes, then drag the copied library folder to the Library icon in iTunes. iTunes will process the dragged items, adding anything it finds to your library.
Doing that is just as simple. Copy your library (over the network, onto CDs/DVDs/an external HD, etc.) to your PC, open iTunes, then drag the copied library folder to the Library icon in iTunes. iTunes will process the dragged items, adding anything it finds to your library.
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